The main tourist season runs from April to mid-October. For serious sightseers the best months are from fall to early spring. The so-called low season may be cooler and inevitably rainier, but it has its rewards: less time waiting in line and more time to enjoy closer-up, unhurried views of what you want to see.

Tourists crowd the major art cities at Easter, when Italians flock to resorts and to the country. From March through May, busloads of eager schoolchildren on excursions take cities of artistic and historical interest by storm.

Weatherwise, the best months for sightseeing are April, May, June, September, and October -- generally pleasant and not too hot. The hottest months are July and August, when humidity can make things unpleasant. Winters are relatively mild in most places on the main tourist circuit but always include some rainy spells.

Rome was famously built on seven hills -- Capitolino (commonly known as Campidoglio), Palatino, Esquilino, Viminale, Celio, Quirinale, and Aventino. Two of these historic hills, the Campidoglio and the Palatine, formed the hub of ancient Rome, the center of the civilized world. The Campidoglio has always been the seat of Rome's government; its Latin name is echoed in the designation of national and state capitol buildings.

On the Palatine the earliest recorded inhabitants of Rome lived in modest mud huts; later, its position made it Rome's most exclusive residential zone, site of the emperors' vast and luxurious palaces. Between the hills, in the Forum, the Romans worshipped, discussed politics, and carried on commerce. Between the Palatine and the Tiber were the markets where livestock and produce arrived by boat. Though it remained the heart of monumental and religious Rome, the Forum was later dwarfed by the Imperial Fora, built by a succession of emperors to augment the original overcrowded Forum and to make sure that the people would have tangible evidence of their generosity.

More than any other, this part of Rome is a perfect example of that layering of historic eras, the overlapping of ages, of religions, of a past that is very much a part of the present. Christian churches rise on the foundations of ancient pagan temples. An immense marble monument to a 19th-century king of a newly united Italy shares a square with a medieval palace built by a future pope. Still, the history and memory of ancient Rome dominate the area. After a more than 27-centuries-long parade of pageantry, it is not surprising that Shelley and Gibbon reflected on the sense of sic transit gloria mundi (thus pass the glories of the world) they felt here. The ruins and monuments, the Colosseo and the triumphal arches have stood through the centuries as emphatic reminders of the genius and power that made Rome the center of the Western world.

In 2002 Rome gained a new concert hall, designed by Renzo Piano. It offers what the city long lacked: a high-tech, high-capacity venue for hosting international orchestras and musicians. There are plenty of cultural events throughout the year, and some at outdoor venues during the warmer months. For all outdoor events in the evening, take a jacket or sweater and something to cover your legs -- despite the daytime heat of a Roman summer, nights can be cool. Events generally are poorly publicized; you can find out what's scheduled by keeping an eye on the posters announcing events and reading listings in newspapers and specialized publications.

The most comprehensive listings of what's going on in the city (movies, museum exhibitions, concerts, sporting and cultural events) are in the weekly roma c'è booklet, which comes out every Wednesday. It has a short English-language section at the back. Schedules of events are also published in the daily newspapers, in the Trovaroma Thursday supplement of La Repubblica newspaper, in the Guest in Rome booklet distributed free at many hotel desks, and in fliers available at Azienda di Promozione Turistica di Roma (APT) offices and city tourist information kiosks. A biweekly English-language periodical, Wanted in Rome, available at many newsstands, has good coverage of events in the arts. Look for posters outside churches announcing free concerts and recitals of religious music.

Depending on the venue, concert tickets will cost between EUR7 and EUR25. Often, seating is open (identified in Italian as posti non numerati). Inquire about this when you buy the tickets; you may have to arrive early to get a good seat. Get opera and concert tickets in advance at the box office, or try just before the performance.

After-hours entertainment in Rome consists mainly of late-night cafés, music clubs, and discos. Most spots except the big discos have a clubby vibe, with a regular clientele. The "in" places, especially the discos, change like the flavor of the month and may fade into oblivion after a brief season of popularity. Many simply change name and stylings from one year to the next. Hubs of after-dark activity are Piazza Navona and the Pantheon area, Trastevere, and Testaccio. The Spanish Steps are strictly for tourists.

Shopping in Rome is part of the fun, no matter what your budget. If you're bent on buying, you're sure to find something that suits your fancy and your pocketbook. If you have something specific in mind, like Missoni or Benetton knitwear, Bruno Magli shoes, or Laura Biagiotti perfume, make a note of prices before you leave home, so you'll know whether you're getting a bargain by buying it in Italy. The best buys here are still leather goods of all kinds -- from gloves to bags to jackets -- and silk goods and knitwear. Boutique fashions may be slightly less expensive in Rome than in the United States.

Some worthy old prints and minor antiques can be found in the city's interesting little shops, and full-fledged collectors can rely on the prestigious reputations of some of Italy's top antiques dealers. Genuine Italian handicrafts aren't so easy to find in these days of Asian imports, but some shops stock pottery and handwoven textiles made in Italy. Designer perfumes, from Versace to Armani to Moschino, may be a little cheaper here, but don't buy them in the designer boutiques; instead, look for them in the large profumerie (perfume and cosmetics stores), where you may be able to get a discount simply by asking for the prezzo scontato (discount price).

Since ancient times Romans have been known for great feasts and banquets, and though the days of the triclinium and the saturnalia are long past, dining out is still all the nightlife most Romans need. Don't look for star chefs here, or the latest trends -- with a few notable exceptions, the city's food scene is a bit like its historical sites: well worn but still standing. Nonetheless, food lovers have much to look forward to; in fact, lingering over an alfresco meal is one of Rome's great pleasures.

Until relatively recently, there was a distinct hierarchy delineated by the names of Rome's eating places. A ristorante was typically elegant and expensive; a trattoria served more traditional, home-style fare in an atmosphere to match; an osteria was even more casual, essentially a wine bar and gathering spot that also served food. The terms still exist -- you'll find them in the names of numerous establishments recommended here -- but the distinction has blurred considerably. An osteria in the center of town can be far fancier (and pricier) than a ristorante across the street.

In the category of truly informal dining, Rome's pizzerias compete with those of Naples for Italian preeminence. Again, tradition is the rule: don't look for pineapple or barbecued chicken among your topping options. Instead, expect thin, crispy pizzas with sauce and cheese that are a cut above anything you've had elsewhere and a few select toppings of comparable quality.

Roman restaurants by and large stick to Italian cooking, but you'll find more variations on the theme here than anywhere else in the country. Sicilian, Tuscan, Puglese, and northern Italian regional cuisines are all represented. And, reflecting the increasingly cosmopolitan nature of the city, you'll find good-quality international food here as well -- everything from Japanese to Ethiopian.

Rome's luxury hotels are located in the central part of the city. The Hotel Eden is to the Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese. The St. Regis Grand is only a short walk to the Trevi Fountain. Many of the hotels are on or near the famous Via Veneto. Enjoy a Rome vacation package at the top luxury hotels!